I've had a hard time getting back to writing this, simply because of time and my new schedule. It's also difficult to face the reality of our visit to the Gulf coast region. It wasn't all bad, in fact, we met and hung out with wonderful people at the wedding, many from Gulfport and Biloxi. They were a refreshing contrast to the constant stream of New Yorkers and transplants in our lives. These are true Mississippi natives, and although they were beaten down and feel the daily affect of seeing the barren and damaged coastline, they were quite happy to celebrate one of their own joining the marriage club.
The happy couple, being our New York friends, which means one is from Ohio, the other from Mississippi, invited an American sampling to descend into Biloxi. Guests from Georgia, Michigan, New York, Ohio, Mississippi, California, Colorado, and more I'm sure, hit one of the only operating casino resort hotels in Biloxi, recently re-opening its doors a month and a half ago, just in time for the wedding.
The Beau Rivage is like a beacon of commerce, gambling and hope in an otherwise emptied region. But I only realized this after driving back and forth from Biloxi to Gulfport several times, hotel to hotel to church to hotel. That's when I really saw all the excessive destruction first-hand.
From the Beau Rivage to Gulfport, along US 90, Beach Boulevard, is an eleven-mile stretch of coastline road that was once bursting with beach tourism, hotels, gambling, and wealthy Victorian and modern homes along the Gulf's beaches. It even had its own floating pirate-ship casino anchored off-shore, I was told by one of the sisters in the wedding party. One could walk or bike the beach promenade, fish along the many piers, or swim in the endless sea. Now, one is lucky to see any solid structures left standing, piers are either gone or platforms have been washed away, leaving posts and splintered beams signaling where piers used to be. Toppled tombstones are now just rocks atop a cemetery. Lonely beach-combers are sparse too, not only because of the off-season, but because No Swimming signs announce the hazards of swimming in debris-filled waters.
The first time I drove the stretch, the damage is so in your face that it's hard to absorb it all. The rosy-colored excitement of being a wedding guest cushioned me from what I was really seeing. I saw the damage, gave my obligatory awe, and continued onto the rehearsal. Returning to Biloxi is when it began to sink in. There it was again. It wasn't going anywhere.

The third time, on my way back to the church in Gulfport, I drove alone since my wife was in the wedding party. That's when it really sunk in. Piles of rubble are everywhere, hollowed out first floors leave mini-malls looking like they were built on stilts. Once grand hotels with all the windows blasted out have no facades or outer decor except concrete or rusted steel bones. Only a few have begun construction and re-painting the obligatory beach pastel colors of tourist destinations. A Holiday Inn or Ramada are rebuilt and open, which seems like deep corporation pockets can afford to re-build within Katrina's anniversary. The wealthy fared no better.
The sister also described the booming beach town for me, so I could imagine the difference. Even though presently, that damage is on every corner, she said it was so much worse. Cars stacked on top of each other, the pirate ship moved thousands of feet inland, resting on top of a church, once the waters receded. Palms and other trees snapped like twigs and left amid crushed houses.
But before the storm, she explained, this was a wealthy community, with house after house of gorgeous, Victorian homes, a road one would drive on to look at houses and dream of the good life. In my third trip along 90 going west, I only remember two fully re-constructed homes of livable quality. The rest were under contruction or replaced by empty lots.
Some stand-outs - an owner left a sign in front of their dilapidated
dwelling - "Gone to the Virgin Islands" spray-painted on a large wooden panel. Another one says it all: "We're home. We'll Shoot. Don't Lute." This spelling-challenged message is painted on the side of the house. The mall is re-opened, but restaurants are few. Waffle House has fresh bricks and a sparkling sign. The only thing remaining of McDonald's is a hollowed out signpost, the golden of the arches is gone(the photo is foggy but you can make it out).
To the east is a Bay of Biloxi oasis, tradition, and my high recommendation. You can't miss the ubiquitous ads on beach benches along US 90 - Aunt Jenny's Catfish Restaurant in Ocean Springs, Mississippi. Their website pitch is great - Elvis was there, but I didn't see the photos. I wonder if there is evidence, but since we were wrapped up in the rehearsal dinner, I never even knew at the time that the King had graced Aunt Jenny's cellar lounge. I was told there was once a bridge from Biloxi to Ocean Springs on Beach Blvd., but Katrina saw to that. So from Biloxi, lovers of all-you-can-eat, fried everything - catfish, shrimp, chicken, hushpuppies, and more - must travel north on I-110, east on I-10, then back down along Washington Avenue to reach this staple of Southern-style cooking.
Tubs of cole slaw were waiting for us on the table, waiting to be forked out. Buttermilk biscuit baskets were passed out with butter and apple jelly, but I mixed it up with one of the squeeze bottle condiments, next to the ketchup and cocktail sauce - honey. Since it was on the table, I did as the locals do and doused my flaky, buttered biscuits with the luscious, dark goo. This appetizer dessert balanced out the slaw's sass. I must be hungry right now because I'm craving it bad. I want my fix of bee-bourne sweet and salty, wet bread. It's not just the taste, it's the slow pour of honey over the wafting biscuitry, the tease of Gulf goodness.
Definitely a highlight. Need I describe the endless plates of lightly-breaded, yet greaseless shrimp, dipped in spicy cocktail, also squoze (I like saying squoze) from a transparent plastic bottle. I collected the shrimp tails in scores. And did I say chicken?! No chain from a colonel can compare. The catfish was the staple, and tasty, mind you, but I preferred my other two friends of the down-home.
(still to be continued; see more Gulfport photos)